Showing posts with label Far North Queensland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Far North Queensland. Show all posts

Wednesday, 23 May 2007

Paradise by the Whitsunday light










“Civilization is an enormous improvement on the lack thereof.” – P.J. O’Rourke

Point me to the person who invented island resorts with kids’ clubs on them and I will worship at his or her feet ‑ nay, even kiss an ass or two in gratitude - because we're ripe for a bit of adult time and it’s now being served up to us on a very generous plate.

We have driven south along the Queensland coast for hours, through never-ending cane fields and unremarkable towns en route to Airlie Beach, home to hordes of horny 20-year-old travellers (think Banff or Whistler, but with a pleasant breeze) and gateway to the magnificent Whitsunday Islands. There are 74 islands - just eight of which are inhabited – cradled in the calm blue waters of the Coral Sea, and they offer what surely must be the quintessential Aussie experience of sun, sea and fine white sand.

A 20-minute ferry from the mainland brings us to Long Island Resort, which of all the Whitsunday Islands is the one where families really belong. It’s also a budget-conscious choice, unlike some of the other, busier islands such as Hamilton and Daydream, and suited to anyone who wants a lot of things to do: get drunk and sing karaoke, enter ping pong and belly-flop competitions, spin around on kayaks or jet skis, go for a tube ride.

There’s a lovely stretch of beach, of course, with hammocks nestled among the palm trees, pools, a swim-up bar, tennis, mini-golf – in short, all the little things you’d expect from a resort even if, like us, you don’t really know what to expect. The rooms aren’t exactly luxurious but we couldn’t care less because anything, save a cockroach-infested jail cell, is luxury after all those nights battling the elements in a swamped tent. Perhaps this Long Island reward is all that much sweeter for all that it took to get here.

The biggest novelty, though, is the kids’ club. Millions of parents before me have discovered the joys of such a thing. Where have we been? Three sessions a day, every day, and our girls want to attend every single one. Who are we to argue?! They are thrilled to make a few friends and see a few new faces, and who could blame them for being a bit sick of mom and dad after all this constant togetherness?

Wednesday, 16 May 2007

Thank heaven for little girls



In a world that churns out JonBenet Ramsay wannabes faster than you can say “MOTHERRRRR, where’s my tiara?!!!” it is so refreshing to meet a gorgeous young girl who’d rather ride her horses and chase rats around the barn than play with make-up and go to the mall. So it’s here in the Atherton Tablelands, on a little dairy farm bursting with love and promise and natural beauty, that Annie and Molly learn one of the most valuable lessons they’ll learn on this year-long adventure.

I can tell them till I’m blue in the face that being outdoors and having fun is all they really need right now. I can tell them that they can be girls ‑ fun, happy, smart, fit and, yes, pretty girls ‑ and still do kid things and goof around and stay young and give no thought to hairstyle or body image or outfits.

But I leave it to the wonderful Rebecca, the farmer’s only daughter, who is literally the COOLEST 10-year-old I’ve ever met, to teach them these lessons just by being who she is and showing them how it’s done.

When we meet Rebecca she’s been feeding her horses and has come back down from the paddock on her 4WD motorbike.

She takes my girls under her wing immediately, and they spend the day chasing down rats (yes, that’s a rat in Molly’s hand) and milking cows and feeding ponies.

She is gorgeous, yes, but she is smart, funny, sporty, compassionate and friendly. There’s not a trace of attitude. If she was a grown-up she’d be something right out of McLeod’s Daughters, the beloved Australian TV series about strong women running an Aussie outback farm. In short, she’s a proper farm kid, complete with Wellington boots and mucky jeans, and she’s exactly the kind of kid I want my own girls to look up to, which they do. In fact, they are in awe, and this has been just the very best day.

Tuesday, 15 May 2007

Bombs away


This croc-free swimming hole in Lion's Den, Queensland, was our best camp spot yet - no other bugger around (heavenly), plus all the sunshine you could want and not a drop of rain.

Just out of this picture frame we also had a buck-naked Doog doing bombs into the river ... but I can't show you that 'cause Grandma fell off her chair the last time I put a naked picture of my husband on this blog. Go figure!

Monday, 14 May 2007

Stuck in the middle with you


Some say the narrow, bumpy, impossibly steep, potholed, muddy coastal track from Cooktown to Cape Tribulation is the worst road in Australia ‑ but for some dumb reason we’re sure they don’t really mean it, and even though all the signs say a four-wheel drive is recommended we figure we’ll be fine because, you know, “recommended” isn’t exactly “mandatory”and the Ford Territory rental at least looks a 4WD.

If only the fellas from Hertz could have seen us five minutes before this picture was taken. Customers of the month we most certainly are not.

The 19th river crossing of the day was to prove our undoing. Mired in the rocks and mud - with the water starting to flow in through the right-hand-side doors and the girls looking ashen in the back seat (“Mom! Mom! Our teddies are getting wet!”) – it took me just a moment to size up the situation, whereupon I immediately realised that taking a fancy-shmancy 2WD rental car on this road was about as smart as driving 5000km from Ontario to Vancouver without a spare tire. Which would be something we might do. Err, did actually do, if truth be told.

The moral of this story, though, is that everyone needs a Doog. Mothers who throw their hands up in the air and start freaking out (that would be mothers like me) are most definitely a hindrance.

SuperDad managed to wade across the river, flagged down a 4WD guy, ran back to us with a sturdy rope, donned Molly’s mask and snorkel, dove under the car and attached it to something sturdy, and then came up for air to give the guy on the other side the thumbs-up.
Smug Spouse he may be at times, but where would I be without?

Thursday, 10 May 2007

Close encounters




At last, the authentic slice of Australiana I’ve been yearning for. Overgrown with mangroves and pandanas, Cooktown’s Endeavour River and its maze of lagoons ooze an eerie, otherworldly atmosphere - so twisted is the network of tributaries that it would be easy for the uninitiated to get lost and simply disappear forever.

It reminds me of the scene in Crocodile Dundee when the hopelessly out-of-her depth, innocent but dumb Linda Kozlowski sets off to show Mick she can go walkabout on her own. She’s a New Yorker after all. She can handle it. A dubious Mick tracks her – close enough to save a damsel in distress but far enough away that she can’t see him – and we know just what he’s thinking as she bends over the billabong (duhh!) in her dumb ’80s butt-floss bodysuit before he jumps out of nowhere to put a knife through the skull of a croc that’s suddenly hanging off the end of her water bottle.

There’s no '80s butt-floss bodysuits out here, of course, but the place reminds me, just the same.


Wednesday, 9 May 2007

I hear ya, Captain Cook


“I climbed one of the highest hills that overlooked the harbour, which afforded by no means a comfortable prospect.” - British explorer James Cook, on discovering Cooktown, in far north Queensland, in June 1770.

Surprise! It’s raining again! But I dig Captain Cook. He had the coolest way with words. I discovered this phrase on the sign beside Molly, on the very spot Cook himself had climbed to on that day in 1770. It's my new favourite saying. I’ll be sure to try it out when we get home:

Friends: “So, how was the camping?” “
Me: “Well, you know, it afforded by no means a comfortable prospect.”
Friends: “What about the weather?”
Me: “Again with the no comfortable prospect.”
Friends: “Oh get over yourself. My God, you bitch a lot. You could’ve been eaten by a croc.”
Me: “That may well have afforded me a more comfortable prospect, and a mercifully quick end to this soggy holiday.”

Of the many things said about Captain Cook, here's one that would also apply to my annoying husband: “He left nothing unattempted”. (Especially if it afforded me by no means a comfortable prospect.)

Tuesday, 8 May 2007

Courting the kangaroos

Surrounded by wild wee wallabies at the botanic gardens in Cooktown in Far North Queensland, Molly and Annie get plenty close enough to look, but never to touch, before their furry friends hop, skip and jump away.